As Vivências dos Designers de Moda em relação ao seu trabalho: uma abordagem psicodinâmica

Abstract

The following study was developed with the purpose of analyzing the universe of the Fashion Designer professional that acts specifically on the clothing market, about his/her trajectory, identity, senses and experiences that concerns to his work. It s a case study of descriptive qualitative and exploratory character, developed with 11 Fashion Designers that act on the market of Goiânia, that tried to raise experiences of pleasure-pain, supported on the psychodynamic approach of work. It used individual interviews, which were interpreted through a graphic analysis of the speech. Its specific goals were: 1) to raise the identity and the trajectory of the Fashion Designer professional, the senses of his/her profession, the meanings of art and market, and the work as a creative process; 2) To raise the experiences of the Fashion Designers in relation to the process of work management, analyzing their organization and their work relationships, their conditions and work time; 3) To raise the subjective mobilization of the workers, analyzing the comprehension of their experiences of pleasure-pain and defensive strategies. In relation to the experiences related to their professional identity, their life trajectories, and the senses given by them at work on the art and market relationship, it can be said that Fashion Design is a field that works for money and that the art takes the domain of symbolic and communicative aspects more into consideration than the manufacture and hand abilities. It is also relevant that art and creation are intimately related, according to the view of the interviewed Designers, and that even though it is published art and not pure art , the identification between the art and the work of the designer is significant and positive, even with the conscience of its productive process. In relation to their work organization, it showed some elements that are common experiences of all the people interviewed that didn t pertain to their functional relation: division of work; division of tasks; division of men (leaderships, leaders, etc.); the existence of instruments of evaluation and of quality patterns; and the discrepancy between the prescribed and the real. On the other hand, it showed the lack of standards and patterns of formal procedures; the existence of a long and structured productive process; the high necessity of group/team work; and that they are submitted to an elevated degree of personal judgment, from the company s and from the client s point of view. Among the autonomous and the employed ones, we noticed experiences that are differentiated and not represented by the enterpriser or owners of their own business, as: to deal with the companies that focus on the result rather than on the technical process, and the difficulty to make the owner of the company aware of the real work developed by the Fashion Designer. Now, on what concerns the experiences of the workers subjective mobilization, they are used to minimize their pain, the defensive ideology through contradictory speech. About the pleasure experiences, it shows that the activity of creating fashion is the source of pleasure and the task itself provides balance over the psychological burden, because they are recognized in their own work. This activity, in its own experience is recognized as creative, not overly alienating, producing pleasure. The data showed that the sublimation process experienced by the interviewed participants, that through the freedom of creation, they can deal in a healthy way with the difficulties faced in this field of work. The psychodynamic and the theories related to work, to the creativity and to the Fashion Designer universe proved to be appropriate, relating the process of creation and art with the demands of the consumer market and with the professional practice. It is expected that the understanding and analysis of this study might help the fashion organizations to make strategic choices that allow better results for their teams of collaborators, especially for their Designers. It is also expected that this work might contribute to the humanistic field, on what concerns the psychodynamic work, specifically the psychology